Had a holiday during the first week of July, with plenty of time on my hands for revising opinions and calculating the results:

 

I'm now back to the idea of a full length outboard well and reduced permanent keel depth (c 5", giving a final draft of around 21"). The 20 litres of displacement lost equates to an extra 3.5mm draft over the full wetted area of the hull bottom, so for the extra security of not trashing the hull with a spinning prop,  I'll go for it.

 

Planning the footprint can be done in the warmth (not that we need that this month) of the office:

 

 

However, the first job upon return was to remove the clamps from the carlings:

 

 

Above shows the shaped & fitted item. It will need a little flattening to take the coaming, as the compound bend seems to have caused a slight bulge in centre. Either that, or it wasn't properly flat in the first place....

 

And as discussed previously, kerfing the carlings made them much eaisier to bend in the vertical plane:

 

 

The kerfs are cut about every 2", but only the one on the right is particularly visible as I used a narrow pullsaw, and the tighter bending radius closes them up very nicely.

 

The template for the well is transferred to a 6mm ply sheet that will act as a mould, but will also remain in the boat, 2" above waterline position, and will be fixed fore and aft at the bulkheads and extended to the hull sides above the waterline to prevent waves getting any water into the boat:

 

 

The sides of the well are to be fabricated from 3/4" strips, beaded & coved using the router, with "spring-fingers" holding tolerances during machining:

 

 

...giving matched profiles as seen below.

 

 

The large, flat section was installed first, checked for plumb, then the tight curve was installed using "rhinobond" polyurethane waterproof adhesive. The strips were taped together first as a whole, then six at a time were glued & chocked into place with wedges & custom cut jigs.

 

 

 

The last flat side was then measured & cut to allow for any angle picked up due to variances between the top & bottom profiles. This was only 6mm in the end.

 

 

 

Side view below shows the well sliding up into the hull, with the skeg in position. From here, the well needs to be relieved around the engine mounting bracket to allow it to slide up flush with the bottom of the hull.

 

 

Whil the glue was drying on each section, I started on the stern log, which will have a compound bevel top & bottom. First stage was to shape the bottom edge to fit the hull, remove the template & plot the desired deck curve before planing to shape & re-fitting. This can now be used as the template for the full (12mm+) thickness stern log fasioned from utile.

 

So, once the well walls were completed, it just left the surrounds to be installed. The pic below shows the surrond protected against epoxy as it was used to hold the well walls vertically & in the correct position. The other side was added for final support before allowing the epoxy to harden.

 

 

 

the remaining well walls were then cut, planed & fitted to suit (below). All that remains here now is to trim the slatted wall to the correct vertical height & glass the external well walls.

 

I have yet to decide whether to glass all of the horizontal boards to the main well, or to leave them free & use a mastic sealer, enabling their removal for future maintenance. Got a while on that one though, as the underneath nees to be cold moulded & glassed before I get back to the well.

 

 

 

So....next stage is to lift her off the trolley on straps and make frame to support the inverted hull before rolling her over.

 

Oops,... got a bit carried away tonight...went out for an hour at 8pm 'to tidy up & measure up for the next trolley jig', and ended up lifting the boat into her straps.

 

That led to:

20:42hrs: Wonder how difficult it's going to be?

 

 

Am I going to need 3 or 4 people?

 

 

20:52hrs: Well, I've got this far on my own... (the boat now rest on her side on the angled trolley support)

Gravity helps from here on in..

21:01hrs: With a total rollover time of 19 mins, I guess I won't be needing any help then :-))

Rolling back over to rightside up will be a different matter, as I'll have a smooth but painted hull to contend with, but I think a party of 3 should do it, rolling the boat systematically within the support straps.

Once the trolley is ready, the first job will be to trim back the well sides (below) & other overhangs from the hull sides to create smooth, fair chines.